travel guide: 5 days in the south of france
Lourmarin, Provence / Photography by Auriane Clément
After our first three months sourcing antiques in England, we were craving some serious R&R. So, where better to unwind than the sun-soaked countryside of Provence? Think charming medieval villages, an incredible art scene, and food that's basically a work of art itself. It's time to escape to the heart of artistic paradise for a five-day getaway.
DAY 1
Embarking on a journey to the South of France, our adventure began in the vibrant city of Nice, where the Mediterranean breeze greeted us as we indulged in a leisurely lunch amongst the quaint winding alleyways. We explored the boutiques, admiring the traditional straw tote bag makers and artists sketching outside. After lunch, we hit the road and headed onto our first destination and home base for the trip: the picturesque town of Aix-en-Provence.
Among the notable residents of Aix-en-Provence was Paul Cézanne, the post-impressionist painter whose work was deeply influenced by the landscapes and streets of his hometown. Visiting Cézanne's atelier in Aix-en-Provence offers a glimpse into the world of one of the most influential artists of the 19th century. Preserved much as it was during Cézanne's lifetime, the atelier provides an intimate look at the artist's creative process and daily life. Visitors can explore the studio where Cézanne meticulously crafted his iconic works, still filled with the tools of his trade and personal belongings.
Our first night in Aix, we stopped for an apéritif at the Place des Cardeurs, a bustling square with outdoor bars. We ordered some mulled wine, nestled under cozy blankets, and enjoyed the live street performers that frequent the square. We dined at Le Bistrot, known for it’s traditional French Provençal cuisine with a charming classical interior and hearty locally-sourced menu.
Atelier de Cézanne, Aix-en-Provence
DAY 2
No trip to the South of France would be complete without indulging in some wine tasting, especially savouring the renowned rosé wine that has made the region famous. We decided our first stop would be the architecturally celebrated Chateau La Coste. Tucked amidst rolling vineyards and olive groves, this stunning estate offers not only exceptional wines but also an art gallery with regular exhibitions, and striking art installations set up around the property.
We headed into nearby small town Lourmarin for the evening. As one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" (Most Beautiful Villages of France), Lourmarin boasts cobblestone streets lined with charming boutiques, cafés, and centuries-old stone houses adorned with cascading vines and vibrant flowers. The focal point of the village is its elegant Renaissance château, which stands proudly at the top of the hill, offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. We spent the evening at La Maison Cafe, a lively cocktail bar and terrace featuring live music and DJ performances.
‘Crouching Spider’, Chateau La Coste, Provence
DAY 3
Venturing further into the heart of Provence, we explored the ancient hilltop village of Gordes. Steeped in history, this picturesque town captivated us with its winding streets and stone houses. Perched atop the cliffs, we enjoyed a brief respite at Le Cercle Republicain, a members bar offering breathtaking views of the surrounding hills (and even better views at sunset!). Ask politely in French if you can sit on the terrace and wander outside to soak up the views.
The small towns in this region are very accessible by car and you are sure to find inspiration around every corner in this culturally rich region of southern France. We made our next stop the stunning town of Rousillon, famous for it’s ochre-hued cliffs of the Luberon Regional Natural Park, followed by the medieval village of Le Castellet. Be sure to stop at La Femme Du Boulanger, a delicious artisanal pâtissier and chocolatier.
Continuing our journey, we discovered the charming village of Bonnieux at dusk, where we were welcomed with open arms by a French-American couple who had recently returned from New York. Their cozy wine shop, Racines, offered a delightful escape, where we savoured the flavours of local champagne and browsed their extensive natural wine collection, amidst tales of their newfound Provencal life.
Bonnieux, Provence / Photography by Chelsea Essig
DAY 4
L'Isle Sur La Sorgue’s bustling Sunday morning brocante (antiques) market beckoned, a treasure trove of antique delights waiting to be discovered. Set against the backdrop of picturesque canals and historic buildings, the market comes alive each weekend as vendors showcase their antique finds for sale.
For lunch, we drove to nearby Sanary-sur-Mer which offers a taste of coastal paradise. We dined al fresco on moules et frites, basking in the warmth of the Mediterranean sun, overlooking the locals swimming and enjoying a day at the beach (in December!). The Christmas lights on the boats at Sanary-sur-Mer transform this charming seaside town into a magical winter wonderland, captivating visitors with their festive glow. As dusk descends, the streets come alive with twinkling lights, illuminating the quaint cobblestone pathways and historic buildings.
We made one final winery stop to taste Bandol wines at Domaine Lou Capelan. Bandol wines are particularly celebrated for their bold and flavourful red wines made primarily from the Mourvèdre grape variety, as well as their aromatic rosé wines. Guided by knowledgeable sommeliers, we were treated to insights into the winemaking process and the history of the estate.
We ended the day with pizza (and more wine!) at Le Four Sous Le Platane, an atmospheric restaurant in the heart of Aix-en-Provence, with pretty twinkle lights and a simple and delicious fresh menu.
Antiques market at L'Isle sur la Sorgue / Photography by Chantal Garnier
DAY 5
Guided by the expertise of Ted Aix Tours, we embarked on a morning exploration of Aix-en-Provence. Before we met Ted, we made a quick pitstop at local favourite Maison Bechard, picking up morning croissants and pastries to start the day. We then strolled through the cobblestone streets, brimming with an array of boutiques, restaurants, and artisanal delights. We tried a variety of local delicacies with Ted, including the famous calisson, a traditional French candy made from ground almonds, candied melon, and orange peel, shaped into an almond-shaped form, and topped with a thin layer of royal icing.
The highlight of our tour was a visit to the local market, where we witnessed Provençal gastronomy at it’s most organic - whether you're planning a picnic or simply craving a taste of Provence, the market's charcuterie vendors have something to satisfy every palate. We also highly recommend Ted’s restaurant list for visiting Aix, he has great taste!
After our walking tour, we stumbled upon La Fromagerie Du Passage, a hidden gem tucked down a charming passageway, offering a fantastic array of cheeses and wines. Seated on wine barrels, we watched the world go by, soaking in the slow pace of life here.
For evening casual wine stops, we loved Le Cave Des Ours, where we enjoyed a delicious charcuterie board and a “blind glass” served in a black opaque wine glass in their hidden back room, encouraging you to explore your senses of taste and smell. We also recommend La Meduse, a vibrant evening stop with music and a fantastic wine selection.
Morning market in Aix-en-Provence / Photography by Christian Mackie
As we wrap up our five-day adventure in Provence, I'm absolutely blown away by everything this region has to offer. From the stunning art scene and delicious food to the quality wines and medieval history and architecture, Provence has it all. We've soaked up the beauty of the countryside, wandered through charming villages, and stuffed ourselves silly with local delicacies. Provence has cast its spell on me, and I am already dreaming of the day when I can return to immerse myself once again in its timeless beauty and warm hospitality.